Cookbook Author Deborah Madison and Farmers Markets on this week's GREAT TASTE

  • Wed
    Jul 23
    7:00 pm -
    8:00 pm
  • Fri
    Jul 25
    7:00 am -
    8:00 am

Deborah MadisonDeborah Madison’s cookbooks have occupied treasured spots on my bookshelves since 1987 when she wrote The Greens Cook Book along with Edward Espe Brown.  Fast forward 27 years, three James Beard Awards plus many other accolades, and Madison, though not a vegetarian, continues her love affair with vegetables.  

The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone came out this past spring, an update to her classic Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone published in 1997.  Last year’s Vegetable Literacy  went far beyond a recipe book as Madison drew on her insights over several decades of cooking, including stints in professional kitchens, and as a gardener, enlightening readers with the interconnected web of relationships within the same botanical family.

Click on "Read More" for recipes from Vegetable Literacy.

In the introduction to Vegetable Literacy Madison wrote, “When we look closely at the plants we eat and begin to discern their similarities, that intelligence comes with us into the kitchen and articulates our cooking in a new way.  Suddenly our raw materials make sense.  We can see how we might substitute related vegetables when cooking, or how all the umbellifer herbs, including cilantro, parsley, and chervil, flatter umbellifer vegetables, such as carrots and fennel.”

Thanks to her publisher I have included two recipes from Vegetable Literacy.  For more information on Deborah, please see her bio below.

In the second half of the show, it’s the height of summer so time to catch up on what’s ripe at the Farmers Market.  We’re focussed on our little patch of local earth, but wherever you are there is a Farmers Market nearby.  Check out this link to find your local market-http://search.ams.usda.gov/farmersmarkets/

Summer Squash Tartin

Summer Squash Tartines with Rosemary and Lemon

For 4

 

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 or 2 summer squash (about 8 ounces in all), very thinly sliced

Scant 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

4 long pieces of baguette, sliced diagonally

Olive oil and garlic for the bread

1/2 cup ricotta cheese

Heat the oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the squash, sauté for 1 minute or so to warm, then add a splash of water and cover. Cook over medium-high heat until the squash is soft, about 3 minutes. Remove the lid, add the rosemary and lemon zest, toss it with the squash, and then season with salt and pepper.

Lightly brush the cut surface of the baguette pieces with olive oil, then toast until golden and crisp. While the bread is hot, rub the cut surfaces with the garlic. Spread the baguette pieces with the ricotta, then overlap the squash on top. Season with a bit more pepper and serve.

Kohlrabi Salad

Kohlrabi Salad with Green Onions, Parlsey, and Frizzy Mustard Greens

 For 4 to 6

 I couldn’t resist Ruby Steak and Scarlet Frill, two mustards with such highly indented leaves that they end up with a most curious frizzy appearance. If they are not at your farmers’ market, you can order seeds for the highly decorative mustard greens through Kitazawa Seed Company.

You can also make this using turnips and jicama, or use any of the vegetables together. { Pictured opposite }

 1 pound kohlrabies

About 1 cup stemmed flat-leaf parsley leaves

6 slender green onions, white and firm greens, thinly sliced

Ruby Streak or Scarlet Frill mustard sprigs or red mustard leaves, finely sliced, to your taste

Sea salt

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 teaspoons lemon juice or rice vinegar

 If the kohlrabies are young and tender, you don’t need to peel them. If they are older and less than tender, take the time to slice off the skins. Cut the kohlrabies into fine julienne. A quick and effective way to do this is to slice them thinly on a mandoline, then stack the slices and cut them into matchsticks.

 Toss the kohlrabi with the parsley leaves, green onions, mustard sprigs or leaves, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add the oil and lemon juice and toss again. Taste for salt, then serve.

 

DEBORAH MADISON

reprinted from her website

I grew up first on a dairy farm in upstate New York, then in a walnut orchard in Davis, California. I believe that those experiences informed my cooking and my interest in plants.

I first put my passion for cooking into motion at the San Francisco Zen Center where I was a student for eighteen years. While there I held a host of kitchen positions, from head cook to guest cook at Tassajara, to private cook for the abbot and his guests.

After eating my first meal at Chez Panisse in 1977 I immediately went to work there until opening Greens Restaurant in 1979. Greens was one of the earliest Bay Area restaurants to have a farm-driven menu as our nearby farm, Green Gulch, provided beautiful, organically grown vegetables to cook with.

After leaving Greens I cooked for the director of the American Academy in Rome, then later opened Café Escalera in Santa Fe with Chez Panisse chef, David Tanis. I have had a variety of cooking, consulting and teaching jobs over the years.

Known as a chef, cooking teacher I am also a writer whose specialties are seasonal vegetable recipes with an emphasis on farmers markets produce and heritage varieties. I am also a home gardener.

Connecting people to the food they eat, its source and its history, has long been my work, and writing is one way to reveal the deeper culture of food. My interests lay with issues of biodiversity, seasonal and local eating, farmers markets, small and mid-scale farming, farmers and ranchers, gardens and gardeners. I have been involved with Slow Food in various capacities for more than a decade, served on the board of the Seed Savers Exchange, and was co-director of the Monte del Sol Edible Kitchen Garden in Santa Fe, New Mexico among other positions.

For over twenty years I’ve lived in Northern New Mexico with my husband, painter Patrick McFarlin.